Category: Design

  • Interview: Steven Visser

    Designer (Netherlands)
    Photography: Courtesy of Artist

    Patrolling the world wide web like I usually do, I came across a designer whose accessories spoke to the precious minimalist in me. Though I am a woman, I have an impractical weakness for well-crafted menswear and accessories for men. It has always been “my thing”. Perhaps, it is why I enjoy the works of Marc Jacobs — who recently spoke at 92nd Street YAlexander Wang and Peter Alexander.

    Attractively, there’s not a piece I truly dislike. Whilst, some (or most) items are not serviceable — lifestyle-wise, I understand their functions or reasons for existing. Gentlemen, this one’s for you.

    Mr. Visser is a twenty-seven year old gentleman living in Arnhem. He grew up in a small town called “Lochem” in the East of Holland. He’s recently graduated from school and he believes he has a long way to go before he calls himself “a great designer”.

    In reference to why and how he does what he does, he replied, “To create a concept is one thing, but for me, it’s most important that I design with my hands. Making is thinking.”

    Speaking from experience: Usually, the greats are the humble giants.


    Why do you do it?

    Because I like it. I’ve always taken things a step further and finally, I became quite good at it. You can only become good at something if you like to do it.

    That’s true. Are you completely satisfied with what you have going on?

    Yes and no. I’m pleased with my collection, but as a designer who just started, it takes very long to find things out. For example, I don’t have all the machines I’d like to have. Now, I’m depending on certain companies and this takes more time.

    We totally understand. Well, it’s a brand new year. There are hundreds of days we will have to experiment, experience and edit. What would you like most out of this era?

    I would like to have my suspenders, pocket watch, black pipe and glasses to be ready-to-order and make [money?]. And it would be great if there’s more interest from across the globe for my work, this interview is a good start!

    Aha, yes, it is. How would you like to be received?

    Like a self-conscious young man who’s interested in street fashion and designs and works like a craftsman.

    How would you like to be remembered?

    Like a designer who re-designs nostalgic products which are well known in society, giving it a new but recognizable look.

    You are certainly off to a great start. You have a freshness, a polished, a cleanliness to your personal look and your designs. Does art imitate life or does life imitate art?

    I think it has to work both ways.

    But what I really like is your soft beard. Why do you grow it?

    At first, it was an experiment. But soon, it became clear it was something that I liked very much. So, it got longer and longer. My girlfriend makes sure it doesn’t get longer than this.

    What sets you apart from other gentlemen?

    Sometimes, the beard, but generally every guy who’s interested in street fashion has the same ideas about style — men look different because they find different stuff to wear. For me, brands are not a must and I prefer my stuff to be pre-owned / vintage.

    What do you feel sets you apart from other designers?

    My theme and choice of products. I try to stand out with my work by doing something original with iconic products.

    A day with Steven Visser is like…

    It will be a combination of searching flea markets, listening to good music and highly concentrated work in my atelier.

    The first video I watched in 2013 was a video about you called “A Gentlemen’s thing: Steven Visser” and I thought you looked great. You are talking about your pocket watch in this video. What inspired this specific design? What is your favourite design so far?

    The pocket watch is one of the most iconic accessories of the classic gentleman. The designs of my products are mostly inspired by technical and functional solutions I see around me. For example: The idea of making a hole in the ebony wood cover to open the pocket watch with your thumb came from a closet door in my mother’s attic. The way the stick and handles of the canes are constructed are classical wood connection often hidden. I find it important that a detail has a function, that way construction gets a decorative spin. This is a form follows function principle. I have a hate versus love relation with the pocket watch. I think it’s an original product. It is very difficult and complex to make it.

    [vimeo url=”http://vimeo.com/49850287″ width=”500″ height=”220″ autoplay=”no”]

    We can only imagine! How long have you been a professional designer? Do you work alone or do you have a team or assistance?

    I just graduated, so for now, I’m working alone. My girlfriend graduated with the same education in Product Design, so we discuss my work and hers. In the future, we will join forces and start a studio together. She graduated with a collection of shoes, check out www.verameijwaard.nl for her graduation collection.

    Vera is talented! To date, what are you most proud of as a designer? As a man?

    As a designer, I’m proud of my graduation collection ‘A Gentleman’s Thing’. The education was 4 years of working very hard and I’m pleased to have finished it with these products. I’m mostly proud of the skills I made my own during this education. I can make the product I design and for me that’s a luxury. As a man, I’m proud of having a loving relationship with my girlfriend Vera. We just moved in together and things are going very well!

    Congratulations! You agreed to this interview, partly or wholly because of the way the website looks and that is an honor, truly. It means alot coming from someone with a trained eye. Thank you. When you first read the name “GrungeCake”, what came to mind?

    The combination of different elements in search of something fresh and controversial.

    Bingo! I imagine you listen to music that reflects your personal style, but before we get into what you personally like to listen to when working or at your leisure, I’d like to introduce a new stream of thinking. If I had to select one song that best describes the feeling I got when I first saw you, instantly, I heard “Tighten Up” by The Black Keys. What do you hear when you see me?

    The Black Keys is a right choice of band, but I must correct you on the song. To me, their first album ‘the big come up’ is still the best. Songs like ‘do the rump’ and ‘heavy soul’ are much better than their latest, more commercial, songs.

    The Black Keys – Tighten Up

    Tyler, The Creator – Tron Cat

    [vimeo url=”http://vimeo.com/24050757″ width=”500″ height=”220″ autoplay=”no”]

    I’m not sure if you’re into Tyler, The Creator, maybe his lyrics are a bit too crude. Whatever. I would link you to ‘tron cat’ by Tyler, The Creator. I saw you have an interview with Gonjasufi. His music under the name “Sumach” would be the second thing I’d suggest.

    Are you looking to collaborate with anyone or corporation in particular?

    In the future, I absolutely want to work with others but for now I couldn’t tell you who or what that is. In the near future, I will need a few collaborations to get my collection produced. Eventually, it would be ideal to have my own collection under my name and design products for companies or labels on the side. This way, my profession is diverse.

    Are you open to collaborating with other designers?

    Yes, I think the first collaboration will be with Vera. And in the future, the two of us will collaborate with other designers.

    What is production like? How involved are you in the process? Are you creating sketches / prototypes digitally or manually? Are you putting it together yourself?

    For now, I’m doing most of the work myself. The past few months, I worked on my pocket watch. Parts of the watch are milled at a company and next, I have to work about 10 to 15 hours on each watch to finish it totally, many parts are customized. Because I just finished school, I have to find out many things about production, etc. To make ten pocket watches took me a long time, but that’s also because I can’t invest in production by someone else. Ask me again in one year…

    What makes a great designer?

    Self-knowledge.

    Are you there yet?

    Hell no!

    Leave your last words, thanks, contact information, favourite quote, etc.

    I’d like to finish this interview with a quote from a philosopher:

    [quote]Fine art is that in which the hand, the head, and the heart of man go together. — John Rushkin[/quote]

    In other words, making is thinking.


    To get in touch with Steven Visser, you can start by emailing him at info@steven-visser.nl, visiting his website: www.steven-visser.nl or calling him at 0031-651914264. His wooden rings are also a charmer.

  • Meet The Locals: Nathalie Kraynina

    Nathalie Kraynina
    Images: Richardine Bartee

    Every now and then, you come across a talent that is downright undeniable and you cannot push it to the side, even if you tried. Adding fashion to that idea for me, it is even more of an infrequency.

    Days after the Williamsburg Fashion Weekend, which I did not attend, I received a promotional email that included a look book. Before reading any of what was written, I wanted to know if her designs were worth my time based upon image alone. Some might digest it is as shallowness or crude behaviour, but I am in no illusion about what this business is about. Namely, fashion.

    Recently, I visited her studio in Greenpoint, Brooklyn and I fell in love with her presentation and craftsmanship. Seeing her collection up close is a treat. Her collection shows me that though she might be a “new” designer, with tenacity, she is here to stay.

    Reciting seeing her mother dress extravagantly as a little girl growing up in the late 80s early 90s, Kraynina remembers perfect strangers double-taking and complimenting her mother on the street all the time.

    [quote]She was so beautiful.[/quote]

    Luckily, her parents supported and believed in her career from the beginning. Later, Nathalie Kraynina attended Fashion Institute of Technology in NYC where she majored in fashion design and specialized in ready-to-wear and tailoring.

    When asked about life after school and the importance of school, Kraynina replied, [quote]School gave me the foundations. I learned how to sew and make patterns the right way and it gave a true understanding of what it really entails to make a garment. I was really lucky to study under people who were in the industry for a very long time. I also had 2 internships with Badgley Mishka and Michael Kors, which really helped me to get the full understanding of a designer fashion house. I worked with the design teams and I was backstage at fashion shows as well in sales and marketing meeting. It was hard at times because I worked full-time and went to class at night but that experience really made who I am today. I love being in New York! I am grateful I had the opportunity to be in New York — everything is here![/quote]

    As mentioned atop about her signature design style and swatch, it was her use of black and strong contours that pulled me in instantly:

    Hand-dyed chiffon button down cropped top with cut-out back *Color may vary due to hand dye process. Fabric Contents: 100% Polyester & 100% silk crepe-de-chine. Care Instructions: Dry clean only . Click to order.

    Whilst Kraynina would disagree and remain humble about her style being a signature one, we’ll do the honours.

    Black is essential to her new collection and she loves to wear it. Factoring in that it is slimming and can be worn at any time of day, for any occassion and it is very New York. In fact, her S/S 2013 collection is all about reinventing black. It consists of interchangeable separates that can be worn together or can be added to any of your existing pieces. Kraynina wants you to think of your “little black dress” taken to a whole collection.

    [quote]I wanted to make an effortless Summer line that plays with textures and silhouettes. I used easy fabrics like stretch denim and cotton and dress them up with leather, silk brocades, and embroidered some pieces with stones and jewels. Even though the whole collection is all black, it has touches of silver, blues and greens.[/quote]

    Interview Highlights

    On being a new designer and what makes her continue

    Well, yes it is very hard. But once you start, you can’t look back and you can’t stop. Making clothes is truly what I love to do and I really can’t imagine myself doing anything else with my life. I learn and get better with every mistake and ultimately grow. It takes a really “thick skin” to make it in this industry. I know people always say that and I heard it so many times, but is actually so true. You just have to keep going and move forward. That’s how I look at life.

    On her ultimate goal

    I love creating wearable clothes. Fashion is art form that doesn’t really start to exist until someone puts it on and wears it out. It is kind of commercial, in that way, but that’s also the best part of it. You see people enjoying your creation. My ultimate goal is to be able to make clothes in a socially and eco responsible way and have women from all around the world be able to wear them.

    On the importance of buying fabrics and garments locally instead outsourcing

    Yes, this is one of the messages I am an advocate for and I like to talk about as a designer. It is not only that when you buy locally made garments you support local business and growth, but also you actually take a stand against the current standard. The more we all (as a collective body) buy garments that are produced in a socially responsible and eco-friendly way, the more the standards and regulations are going to change. The industry will change only if the consumers change their taste.

    A friend of mine says this and I like to repeat it: “You vote with your money” every time you time you buy a $10.99 T-shirt there is someone on the other end that is paying for it with their blood.

    I know it sounds dramatic, but it is actually true. And we are all guilty of doing it. After all, it is a great “deal” to find a super cute top for only $10.99, I know I have in the past; it is almost impossible to live in our present time and not have done that. But, if consumers get more educated on where things are made and how they are made and they ask more questions they will see that it is not such a great deal after all. Most things that are on sale are not left over stock or extra inventory that all of sudden you are getting a super exciting discount on, they are made to be sold at that discounted rate and in most cases they are made in very poor countries in horrific circumstances. I am not asking people to stop shopping, but just to start making small changes and make educated decisions. The companies will respond. Fashion is business and if want to change the way people make clothes we have to first change the way people shop.

    On how people should feel when wearing her collection

    I hope they feel beautiful and confident. I like to make pieces that are truly inspired by women themselves and that are very wearable. I strive to create pieces that are feminine and elegant and stay in women’s closets for decades to come. I want my clothes to say: Timeless elegance.

    On I Can Too, Bulgarian foundation in support of children in need

    Last year, I joined forces with them and created a line of t-shirts to be sold entirely on charity basis in support their mission. All profits from the sale of these t-shirts will go to the creation of the first Center for Autistic Children in Plovdiv, Bulgaria. The whole idea is that everyone does what he or she can to support. The motto is “Everyone CAN… create a better world… by doing whatever they CAN best.”

    In our case, I designed the t-shirts, a factory in Bulgaria produced them and now, they are sold in a store front — all without anyone charging. We all donated our time, effort and resources to make this happen and I am proud to say people are now able to purchase these t-shirts spreading the message in support of the foundation. You can visit www.icantoo.eu to learn more how you can be involved. (You might need a translator)

    On her involvement with two great Brooklyn based companies in support of local aspiring fashion designers: Williamsburg Fashion Weekend and Manufacture New York

    I have showed in WFW for the past 2 years (4 seasons). It has been great for me. It really gave me my start. As a new designer, fresh out of school, one faces many challenges. You not only have to design your collection, figure out how to create it and then produce it, but (and this is a “big” but) but spread the word out about it. WFW does just that.


    Manufacture New York is a Kickstarter campaign that I just joined and I think we should all support and spread the word about. It is a fashion incubator dedicated to providing independent designers with the resources and skills to streamline their production process and transform local manufacturing into the most affordable, innovative option for all. Their headquarters will include a fully-equipped sampling room, manufacturing facilities, classroom space (open to the public), private studios for rent and a state-of-the art computer lab complete with the industry’s latest software for design + production. They will also offer a dedicated area for experimentation with environmentally-friendly fabric washes, dyeing, finishes and special textile applications. This campaign is big step in the right direction being that designers, like myself will be able to produce locally.


    See more images from this feature by clicking here.